collections

BCBG MaxazriaFall Winter 2015 New York

Runway Review
2/12/2015 Natalie Cantell

Although Max and Lubov Azria’s Fall 2015 sang of their romanticized travels to villages of the Baltic Shores, this collection arrived in New York determined to stand up to a city with a bad attitude (and climate to match).

As show-goers sat shuffling the soot-colored icy remnants from their shoes, models backstage dressed in layers upon layers of come-closer-and-touch-me textures: garments made of all manners of quilted softness, buttery leathers, rich wools with edges of shearling that found their way to pockets and sleeves, clutches and boots.

Dramatically oversized turtlenecks defined the silhouette, falling beautifully and unpredictably on every model, adapting that Californian sensibility into something the New York crowd could welcome. The perfectly caramel over-the-knee boots were only the first nod to bohemia the collection would offer; folksy square vests were balanced by easily elegant lengths and layers, chic clutches were slowly introduced. Every color introduced landed exactly on point - first white on white, then grey, navy, oxblood, punctuated with complimentary moments of orange and pink. Things turned darker but steered clear of somber, with looks dominated by black leather and navy livened up with shearling, faux fur and that playfully colorful embroidery.

Leather panels were fringed and held together by laces threaded through metal eyelets. Booties were fur-covered. Yet somehow the collection managed to stay just on the right side of how-many-folksy-visual-cues-are-too-many. On a hair and beauty note, the look was fresh but contoured in earthy brown tones, with ever-so-precisely tousled hair tucked deep into those giant turtlenecks, escaping in delicate wisps.

The hero pieces (exceptional mannish camel coat with laser-cut woolly embellishments aside): the assortment of boxy jackets that let arms roam free from sleeves via an underarm escape route. Only a lone shapeless, printed number missed the mark, feeling strangely satiny and unsophisticated given the stronger silhouettes of the tightly edited company it was keeping. But that aside, super slick styling kept clean and modern what might have turned cliché. The overall effect: a confident collection that resonated as cozy, bohemian elegance.

View Runway
2/12/2015 Natalie Cantell

Although Max and Lubov Azria’s Fall 2015 sang of their romanticized travels to villages of the Baltic Shores, this collection arrived in New York determined to stand up to a city with a bad attitude (and climate to match).

As show-goers sat shuffling the soot-colored icy remnants from their shoes, models backstage dressed in layers upon layers of come-closer-and-touch-me textures: garments made of all manners of quilted softness, buttery leathers, rich wools with edges of shearling that found their way to pockets and sleeves, clutches and boots.

Dramatically oversized turtlenecks defined the silhouette, falling beautifully and unpredictably on every model, adapting that Californian sensibility into something the New York crowd could welcome. The perfectly caramel over-the-knee boots were only the first nod to bohemia the collection would offer; folksy square vests were balanced by easily elegant lengths and layers, chic clutches were slowly introduced. Every color introduced landed exactly on point - first white on white, then grey, navy, oxblood, punctuated with complimentary moments of orange and pink. Things turned darker but steered clear of somber, with looks dominated by black leather and navy livened up with shearling, faux fur and that playfully colorful embroidery.

Leather panels were fringed and held together by laces threaded through metal eyelets. Booties were fur-covered. Yet somehow the collection managed to stay just on the right side of how-many-folksy-visual-cues-are-too-many. On a hair and beauty note, the look was fresh but contoured in earthy brown tones, with ever-so-precisely tousled hair tucked deep into those giant turtlenecks, escaping in delicate wisps.

The hero pieces (exceptional mannish camel coat with laser-cut woolly embellishments aside): the assortment of boxy jackets that let arms roam free from sleeves via an underarm escape route. Only a lone shapeless, printed number missed the mark, feeling strangely satiny and unsophisticated given the stronger silhouettes of the tightly edited company it was keeping. But that aside, super slick styling kept clean and modern what might have turned cliché. The overall effect: a confident collection that resonated as cozy, bohemian elegance.


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