collections

CelineSpring Summer 2015 Paris

Runway Review
9/28/2014 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

That classic notion of the curated catwalk presentation—intense and condensed—is not something Phoebe Philo cares to prescribe to any longer. Her attitude for Spring was much more calm, free, and easy. British songstress Kate Bush was the inspiration for the collection: the designer's enthusiasm was ignited while watching a documentary on the BBC about the artist. She then brushed up on her career, style, and history and attended one of Bush's concerts just a few weeks prior to the show.

That influence rendered itself (somewhat indirectly might we add) in an assortment comprised of an array of contrasting ideas. The only thing that coursed permanently throughout the lineup was Philo's commitment to putting an elegant spin on functionality. Tailoring was on high with pleated trousers, a button-accented jumpsuit, retro-inspired outerwear, and power suiting.

Tunics and dresses were uplifted by languidly hanging panels and glossy button-detailed grid cutouts: the latter a formation that has been quite popular in Paris this season. Florals were fitting for the season, but not typical on roomy blouses, asymmetric hem skirts, ruffle-accented frocks (perhaps fit for the red carpet with a bit more tailoring), and retro-inspired numbers. That was Philo's goal: the designs looked as if they were appropriated from your grandmother's vintage wares. They definitely dug up the past - not the most original pattern but the design carried them into distinctive and unique territory.

Knits and fringe were among the collection's finest concepts on a black ankle-grazing skirt with a thigh-high slit revealing a neutral underlayer, figure-skimming dresses, a red and cobalt number that exuded a handcrafted vibe, and a sleeveless tunic with on-trend cutout detailing. And let's not forget the accessories: a big part of the French fashion house's success. Rectangular shoulder bags with monochrome topstitching, sensible ballet-inspired elastic heels, functional lucite cuffs, handheld croc clutches: all wearable pieces that could easily become staples in any modern-day woman's wardrobe.

The idea of presenting diversified design thoughts had a lot of significance and value: the aggressively-formalized runway show has become boring and often an inaccurate display of what's actually forthcoming in the retail space for most brands. On the other hand, it was difficult to pinpoint Philo's angle and opinion. The collection was chic nevertheless, as well as exuding a surprising practicality.

View Runway
9/28/2014 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

That classic notion of the curated catwalk presentation—intense and condensed—is not something Phoebe Philo cares to prescribe to any longer. Her attitude for Spring was much more calm, free, and easy. British songstress Kate Bush was the inspiration for the collection: the designer's enthusiasm was ignited while watching a documentary on the BBC about the artist. She then brushed up on her career, style, and history and attended one of Bush's concerts just a few weeks prior to the show.

That influence rendered itself (somewhat indirectly might we add) in an assortment comprised of an array of contrasting ideas. The only thing that coursed permanently throughout the lineup was Philo's commitment to putting an elegant spin on functionality. Tailoring was on high with pleated trousers, a button-accented jumpsuit, retro-inspired outerwear, and power suiting.

Tunics and dresses were uplifted by languidly hanging panels and glossy button-detailed grid cutouts: the latter a formation that has been quite popular in Paris this season. Florals were fitting for the season, but not typical on roomy blouses, asymmetric hem skirts, ruffle-accented frocks (perhaps fit for the red carpet with a bit more tailoring), and retro-inspired numbers. That was Philo's goal: the designs looked as if they were appropriated from your grandmother's vintage wares. They definitely dug up the past - not the most original pattern but the design carried them into distinctive and unique territory.

Knits and fringe were among the collection's finest concepts on a black ankle-grazing skirt with a thigh-high slit revealing a neutral underlayer, figure-skimming dresses, a red and cobalt number that exuded a handcrafted vibe, and a sleeveless tunic with on-trend cutout detailing. And let's not forget the accessories: a big part of the French fashion house's success. Rectangular shoulder bags with monochrome topstitching, sensible ballet-inspired elastic heels, functional lucite cuffs, handheld croc clutches: all wearable pieces that could easily become staples in any modern-day woman's wardrobe.

The idea of presenting diversified design thoughts had a lot of significance and value: the aggressively-formalized runway show has become boring and often an inaccurate display of what's actually forthcoming in the retail space for most brands. On the other hand, it was difficult to pinpoint Philo's angle and opinion. The collection was chic nevertheless, as well as exuding a surprising practicality.


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