collections

Derek LamSpring Summer 2015 New York

Runway Review
9/7/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

One doesn't need to look to Hollywood for female superheroes - they're all around us on the train, in cabs, stomping on the sidewalks of the world's largest metropolises, and even in the cubicles right next to us at work. Derek Lam dresses these women who effortlessly do it all and takes pleasure in doing so. He was inspired by superhero Miss America for his Spring 2015 collection: a character introduced in the 40's who was even re-imagined three years ago as a Latina teen named America Chavez. There wasn't much of the 40's in Lam's lineup which felt strikingly 70's, but I have a feeling he was dressing his own idea of a modern-day superheroine which meant mixed textures, polished separates, nautical-inspired details, and fresh faces.

Typically, suede is a Fall texture, but unfortunately global warming has changed the seasons and their temperatures in the Big Apple as we traditionally know them. This meant that Lam showed it and leather on patchwork skirts and coats, refined blazers, a long-sleeve henley dress, and a sexy yet elegant A-line frock with cutout detailing. The hues were most impressive, ranging from candy-colored lilac to teal.

Trousers are always important to the modern-day woman, but it was refreshing to see so many pairs in a season in which designers are ready to bare legs despite the crisp temperatures that linger for more than half of Spring. The pieces at hand were sailor to the max, with that unmistakable button formation on pleated flares, skirted straight legs, a wide-leg iteration, and even a couple of skirts for good measure. Nothing is more American in the fashion world than nautical-inspired looks after all.

Some ensembles were spot on with their precision and tailoring in black or white for modern day finesse, while others fell short in the functionality department with unnecessary bells and whistles. Raised studs adding edge to pieces that were timid in cut, a faux sweetheart creating a double neckline below the initial square neck shape, a tunic failing to completely cover the backside which only works for tall and thin models, the marriage of peplum and loose skirts - just some of the areas where the brand had missteps when it came to wearable fashion.

Lam's signatures are clear and they certainly made their presence felt in these offerings. So many trends that we've already seen emerging in other shows were not present here, which shows that the brand intends to march to the beat of its own drum: truly creating what is best for its customers. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with embracing what women feel to be working for them - refinement and elegance should always be on the menu but not at the sake of practicality.

View Runway
9/7/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

One doesn't need to look to Hollywood for female superheroes - they're all around us on the train, in cabs, stomping on the sidewalks of the world's largest metropolises, and even in the cubicles right next to us at work. Derek Lam dresses these women who effortlessly do it all and takes pleasure in doing so. He was inspired by superhero Miss America for his Spring 2015 collection: a character introduced in the 40's who was even re-imagined three years ago as a Latina teen named America Chavez. There wasn't much of the 40's in Lam's lineup which felt strikingly 70's, but I have a feeling he was dressing his own idea of a modern-day superheroine which meant mixed textures, polished separates, nautical-inspired details, and fresh faces.

Typically, suede is a Fall texture, but unfortunately global warming has changed the seasons and their temperatures in the Big Apple as we traditionally know them. This meant that Lam showed it and leather on patchwork skirts and coats, refined blazers, a long-sleeve henley dress, and a sexy yet elegant A-line frock with cutout detailing. The hues were most impressive, ranging from candy-colored lilac to teal.

Trousers are always important to the modern-day woman, but it was refreshing to see so many pairs in a season in which designers are ready to bare legs despite the crisp temperatures that linger for more than half of Spring. The pieces at hand were sailor to the max, with that unmistakable button formation on pleated flares, skirted straight legs, a wide-leg iteration, and even a couple of skirts for good measure. Nothing is more American in the fashion world than nautical-inspired looks after all.

Some ensembles were spot on with their precision and tailoring in black or white for modern day finesse, while others fell short in the functionality department with unnecessary bells and whistles. Raised studs adding edge to pieces that were timid in cut, a faux sweetheart creating a double neckline below the initial square neck shape, a tunic failing to completely cover the backside which only works for tall and thin models, the marriage of peplum and loose skirts - just some of the areas where the brand had missteps when it came to wearable fashion.

Lam's signatures are clear and they certainly made their presence felt in these offerings. So many trends that we've already seen emerging in other shows were not present here, which shows that the brand intends to march to the beat of its own drum: truly creating what is best for its customers. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with embracing what women feel to be working for them - refinement and elegance should always be on the menu but not at the sake of practicality.


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