collections

GivenchySpring Summer 2014 Paris

Runway Review
9/29/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

Walking into the Givenchy show space on Sunday evening, editors and buyers at Paris fashion week were greeted by a pile-up of smoking cars. It isn't what most expect from a fashion show but Riccardo Tisci, the creative director of the French house, has become known for his ability to create a fashion week "moment". This was a set that suggested such a moment had arrived.

The show began with a bang – literally. It was soundtracked by Senegalese percussion troupe Sing Sing Rhythms, who played traditional Saba drums live. The front row was peppered with celebrities notably Kanye West and Kim Kardashian all in black, with many wearing last season's Givenchy

The clothes saw Tisci take a U-turn from the streetwear influence of last season and head towards something more classical. The show notes suggested an attitude of "sensuality and strength". Taking the car pile-up as a metaphor, it felt as if the Givenchy girl's urban dream had crashed to a halt. In its place was something simpler, almost nomadic.

Clothes that people have worn for hundreds of years were the inspiration. Elements of traditional dress from across the globe, from Indian saris to Japanese kimonos, Masai jewellery to the wraps of Northern Africa, filled the collection. The casting, as always at Givenchy, was equally diverse; the Puerto-Rican supermodel Joan Smalls, a favourite of the brand, led the way for a number of newer faces.

If glitter masks and sequin tabards proved to be Instagram magnets, the collection still featured some subtler hits, such as perfectly tailored trousers, patchworked in red and blue, and a black one-shouldered onesie. Modern draping held the collection together, particularly in the slouchy kneelength silk dresses in an earthy palette that were designed to reveal bandeau bra tops beneath. As much Madame Gres as they were 80s stretch queen Norma Kamali, the dresses will chime with the brand's hip but fashion-savvy fan base.

They were worn with flat two-strap sandals decorated with bold orange jewels along the thick sole – an instant "it" shoe for next summer. Tisci might have reduced his direct references to the streets but this collection's fusions will still appeal to women eager to wear his designs.

View Runway
9/29/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

Walking into the Givenchy show space on Sunday evening, editors and buyers at Paris fashion week were greeted by a pile-up of smoking cars. It isn't what most expect from a fashion show but Riccardo Tisci, the creative director of the French house, has become known for his ability to create a fashion week "moment". This was a set that suggested such a moment had arrived.

The show began with a bang – literally. It was soundtracked by Senegalese percussion troupe Sing Sing Rhythms, who played traditional Saba drums live. The front row was peppered with celebrities notably Kanye West and Kim Kardashian all in black, with many wearing last season's Givenchy

The clothes saw Tisci take a U-turn from the streetwear influence of last season and head towards something more classical. The show notes suggested an attitude of "sensuality and strength". Taking the car pile-up as a metaphor, it felt as if the Givenchy girl's urban dream had crashed to a halt. In its place was something simpler, almost nomadic.

Clothes that people have worn for hundreds of years were the inspiration. Elements of traditional dress from across the globe, from Indian saris to Japanese kimonos, Masai jewellery to the wraps of Northern Africa, filled the collection. The casting, as always at Givenchy, was equally diverse; the Puerto-Rican supermodel Joan Smalls, a favourite of the brand, led the way for a number of newer faces.

If glitter masks and sequin tabards proved to be Instagram magnets, the collection still featured some subtler hits, such as perfectly tailored trousers, patchworked in red and blue, and a black one-shouldered onesie. Modern draping held the collection together, particularly in the slouchy kneelength silk dresses in an earthy palette that were designed to reveal bandeau bra tops beneath. As much Madame Gres as they were 80s stretch queen Norma Kamali, the dresses will chime with the brand's hip but fashion-savvy fan base.

They were worn with flat two-strap sandals decorated with bold orange jewels along the thick sole – an instant "it" shoe for next summer. Tisci might have reduced his direct references to the streets but this collection's fusions will still appeal to women eager to wear his designs.


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