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Karen WalkerFall Winter 2014 New York

Runway Review
2/10/2014 Natalie Cantell

Karen Walker introduced us to a reinvigorated Runaway girl for AW14, one with newfound conviction.

’The League' was inspired by turn-of-the-century suffragettes and long may designers take note of KW’s exemplary homage, walking the line exact as she merely nudged Edwardian and Victoriana references without smacking us in the face with them.

Utilitarian blues arrived first as “The Revolution Will Not Sleep” blared, with designs hinting at workman-wear without being overly literal. Her silhouettes felt at once nostalgic and acutely modern; relaxed pants draped beautifully, full skirts proved a defining look along with that now-familiar boyish suiting and an introduction of full-length dresses. Two prints will definite this collection, the black and white Keith Haring-esqe graphics of tools, hands, brawling angels and broken hearts juxtaposed with needlepoint digital florals in hues of blue, orange and red.

The slogan sweatshirt trend appears to have been resuscitated once again, as Walker embraced the suffragette’s tradition of emblazoning all available resources with mottos born of their modern inclinations. Bags and sweatshirts declared themselves “Young Willing and Eager” and “Faster Better Stronger”, with a final lament of “Liberal Miserable and Cynical”.

As one might expect, accessories were a home run. The eyewear was less demanding of attention than what we’ve seen in the past, yet unmistakably hers. The digital floral print was translated perfectly into a brooch, the gloved hand into a statement belt. Her footwear and those bags (a collaboration with Benah) just refuse to quit, predictably made in the same glorious leather heaven as seasons past.

This was an inspired range that explored new territory - a first flirtation with evening-wear for Walker - whilst reminding us what she does so well: exceptional tailoring, tough-girl femininity and strong silhouettes that feel fuss-free due to clean lines and outstanding cuts. Hers is a fashion that refuses to allow style to fall victim to wearability.

Lest we forget New Zealand was the first country in the world to give women the vote, Walker - a trailblazing Kiwi in her own right - called to remind us such movements come from all corners of the globe. You never knew? Neither did the vast majority of a Northern Hemisphere-centric crowd descending on Pier 59. They left, however, with a renewed - albeit sartorial - interest in the great, pioneering women who fought for such freedoms.

View Runway
2/10/2014 Natalie Cantell

Karen Walker introduced us to a reinvigorated Runaway girl for AW14, one with newfound conviction.

’The League' was inspired by turn-of-the-century suffragettes and long may designers take note of KW’s exemplary homage, walking the line exact as she merely nudged Edwardian and Victoriana references without smacking us in the face with them.

Utilitarian blues arrived first as “The Revolution Will Not Sleep” blared, with designs hinting at workman-wear without being overly literal. Her silhouettes felt at once nostalgic and acutely modern; relaxed pants draped beautifully, full skirts proved a defining look along with that now-familiar boyish suiting and an introduction of full-length dresses. Two prints will definite this collection, the black and white Keith Haring-esqe graphics of tools, hands, brawling angels and broken hearts juxtaposed with needlepoint digital florals in hues of blue, orange and red.

The slogan sweatshirt trend appears to have been resuscitated once again, as Walker embraced the suffragette’s tradition of emblazoning all available resources with mottos born of their modern inclinations. Bags and sweatshirts declared themselves “Young Willing and Eager” and “Faster Better Stronger”, with a final lament of “Liberal Miserable and Cynical”.

As one might expect, accessories were a home run. The eyewear was less demanding of attention than what we’ve seen in the past, yet unmistakably hers. The digital floral print was translated perfectly into a brooch, the gloved hand into a statement belt. Her footwear and those bags (a collaboration with Benah) just refuse to quit, predictably made in the same glorious leather heaven as seasons past.

This was an inspired range that explored new territory - a first flirtation with evening-wear for Walker - whilst reminding us what she does so well: exceptional tailoring, tough-girl femininity and strong silhouettes that feel fuss-free due to clean lines and outstanding cuts. Hers is a fashion that refuses to allow style to fall victim to wearability.

Lest we forget New Zealand was the first country in the world to give women the vote, Walker - a trailblazing Kiwi in her own right - called to remind us such movements come from all corners of the globe. You never knew? Neither did the vast majority of a Northern Hemisphere-centric crowd descending on Pier 59. They left, however, with a renewed - albeit sartorial - interest in the great, pioneering women who fought for such freedoms.


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