collections

KenzoSpring Summer 2014 Paris

Runway Review
9/29/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

PARIS — On a gray Sunday morning in Paris, when there is little traffic and the only signs of life on the streets are a few ambitious joggers, an excursion to the suburb of Saint-Denis for the Kenzo show did not sound so bad. The designers, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, had set up their runway in a glass-ceilinged hall the size of a railway station in La Cité du Cinéma, a film studio complex recently opened by the director Luc Besson. At the entrance is a trailer-size model of the Brooklyn Bridge. And there were cookies.

Bridging cultures, often between home and abroad, has become a signature of Ms. Lim and Mr. Leon, also the owners of Opening Ceremony. Their spring collection for Kenzo sought to meld California beach style with Paris tailoring, along with an ecological message this season of preserving marine life.

Their collection included two-piece looks in crisp cotton, minis, pants and jackets with blue-green scribbles or wavy hems that reflected the ocean, as well as a tunic made of embroidered fish (the clear winner of the show) and another black suit printed with yellow fish that looked somewhat Japanese. A short-sleeve top was marked up with a hastily drawn message, “No Fish, No Nothing,” a reminder of the dangers of overfishing.

Their idealism is endearing, if not a little naïve. Just imagine the younger versions of the designers, when they were pals at Berkeley, signing up for Earth Club and wearing the same tie-dye T-shirts for weeks on end. But the fashion audience is cynical. More than one guest observed that considering the dozens of black Mercedes-Benz coupes idling outside, and the gasoline it took to chauffeur the editors back and forth from the city, the message was mixed.

Source: NY Times

View Runway
9/29/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

PARIS — On a gray Sunday morning in Paris, when there is little traffic and the only signs of life on the streets are a few ambitious joggers, an excursion to the suburb of Saint-Denis for the Kenzo show did not sound so bad. The designers, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, had set up their runway in a glass-ceilinged hall the size of a railway station in La Cité du Cinéma, a film studio complex recently opened by the director Luc Besson. At the entrance is a trailer-size model of the Brooklyn Bridge. And there were cookies.

Bridging cultures, often between home and abroad, has become a signature of Ms. Lim and Mr. Leon, also the owners of Opening Ceremony. Their spring collection for Kenzo sought to meld California beach style with Paris tailoring, along with an ecological message this season of preserving marine life.

Their collection included two-piece looks in crisp cotton, minis, pants and jackets with blue-green scribbles or wavy hems that reflected the ocean, as well as a tunic made of embroidered fish (the clear winner of the show) and another black suit printed with yellow fish that looked somewhat Japanese. A short-sleeve top was marked up with a hastily drawn message, “No Fish, No Nothing,” a reminder of the dangers of overfishing.

Their idealism is endearing, if not a little naïve. Just imagine the younger versions of the designers, when they were pals at Berkeley, signing up for Earth Club and wearing the same tie-dye T-shirts for weeks on end. But the fashion audience is cynical. More than one guest observed that considering the dozens of black Mercedes-Benz coupes idling outside, and the gasoline it took to chauffeur the editors back and forth from the city, the message was mixed.

Source: NY Times


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