collections

Maison Martin Margiela MenswearFall Winter 2014 Paris Menswear

Runway Review
1/17/2014 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

The Margiela show, held in the Oscar Niemeyer—designed French Communist Party headquarters, had models cast as men on a mission reclaiming “a utopian world.” There were strong military references — utility vests, a bomber-jacket patch worked together with sturdy waterproof and windcheater fabrics, and lace-up boots — but these post-apocalyptic heroes managed to also look dashingly stylish. Some of the earlier looks had the attitude of an off-duty Hugh Grant (circa Four Weddings and a Funeral): three-piece suits, top shirt-buttons undone, and hair that looked charmingly foppish.

It was a relatively understated collection for Margiela, but much of the showmanship lay in subtle details — like the oversize, fur-lined pockets, and a cape that first looked like a blanket but was actually made in the shape of a trench. Not such an easy thing to pull off

View Runway
1/17/2014 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

The Margiela show, held in the Oscar Niemeyer—designed French Communist Party headquarters, had models cast as men on a mission reclaiming “a utopian world.” There were strong military references — utility vests, a bomber-jacket patch worked together with sturdy waterproof and windcheater fabrics, and lace-up boots — but these post-apocalyptic heroes managed to also look dashingly stylish. Some of the earlier looks had the attitude of an off-duty Hugh Grant (circa Four Weddings and a Funeral): three-piece suits, top shirt-buttons undone, and hair that looked charmingly foppish.

It was a relatively understated collection for Margiela, but much of the showmanship lay in subtle details — like the oversize, fur-lined pockets, and a cape that first looked like a blanket but was actually made in the shape of a trench. Not such an easy thing to pull off


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