collections

Mary KatrantzouSpring Summer 2015 London

Runway Review
9/14/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

The emotion and energy of Mary Katrantzou's collections are palpable: due in no large part to the striking decoration, embroidery, and dresses her brand has become synonymous with. The fairy tale landscape of Swan Village inspired her Resort collection, but she went both under and over the sea for Spring with colorful fish, sheer chiffon-bottom gowns mimicking the flowing fins of koi, and coral motif frocks. Pangaea was the influence: the original essence of Earth before it was disbanded into the continents we know today.

Fabrics were lush including beaded panels, lace, lasercut embroidery, and piled-on paillette embellishment. Glitter seemed to be scattered across looks like sugar, creating the fantasy on mesh-inset tops and easy camisoles for a functional spin on shimmering glamour.

Chiffon hung languidly from a floor-grazing sleeveless vest, long-sleeve collared maxi dress, babydoll-inspired mini numbers, and the sheer bottoms of colorful embellished gowns. One would think that Katrantzou would dial down on silhouette to allow the looks' descriptive nature to shine, but that wasn't the case: it was all piled on here to add to the daydream.

Lace came in guipure formations and glossy metallics on boudoir-ready slip dresses, long-sleeve frocks with silky pleated skirts, and mini skirts with slits that were cut up to there. A series of collared dresses with floral embroidery and illusion detailing felt undeniably Valentino: not a bad thing as the fashion house has pretty much cornered the market on fantasia-like design.

Resort featured handbags blended into the mix, but accessories were almost nonexistent here, save for an embellished collar. Even the beauty look was aimed at letting the fanciful ensembles play centerstage: fresh faces and loose waves.

Katrantzou is an expert at her art and has successfully managed to create lineup after lineup that is more captivating than the previous season. The luxury quotient was on high, but the silhouettes weren't always flattering. Nevertheless, the ensembles demanded all eyes were on them and the same will be the case of their wearers.

View Runway
9/14/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

The emotion and energy of Mary Katrantzou's collections are palpable: due in no large part to the striking decoration, embroidery, and dresses her brand has become synonymous with. The fairy tale landscape of Swan Village inspired her Resort collection, but she went both under and over the sea for Spring with colorful fish, sheer chiffon-bottom gowns mimicking the flowing fins of koi, and coral motif frocks. Pangaea was the influence: the original essence of Earth before it was disbanded into the continents we know today.

Fabrics were lush including beaded panels, lace, lasercut embroidery, and piled-on paillette embellishment. Glitter seemed to be scattered across looks like sugar, creating the fantasy on mesh-inset tops and easy camisoles for a functional spin on shimmering glamour.

Chiffon hung languidly from a floor-grazing sleeveless vest, long-sleeve collared maxi dress, babydoll-inspired mini numbers, and the sheer bottoms of colorful embellished gowns. One would think that Katrantzou would dial down on silhouette to allow the looks' descriptive nature to shine, but that wasn't the case: it was all piled on here to add to the daydream.

Lace came in guipure formations and glossy metallics on boudoir-ready slip dresses, long-sleeve frocks with silky pleated skirts, and mini skirts with slits that were cut up to there. A series of collared dresses with floral embroidery and illusion detailing felt undeniably Valentino: not a bad thing as the fashion house has pretty much cornered the market on fantasia-like design.

Resort featured handbags blended into the mix, but accessories were almost nonexistent here, save for an embellished collar. Even the beauty look was aimed at letting the fanciful ensembles play centerstage: fresh faces and loose waves.

Katrantzou is an expert at her art and has successfully managed to create lineup after lineup that is more captivating than the previous season. The luxury quotient was on high, but the silhouettes weren't always flattering. Nevertheless, the ensembles demanded all eyes were on them and the same will be the case of their wearers.


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