collections

Proenza SchoulerSpring Summer 2015 New York

Runway Review
9/10/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

Proenza Schouler's runway collections are where the brand makes their most poignant statements, thus their lineup for Spring was brimming with craftsmanship and innovation. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough embarked on their own adaptation of classic American sportswear for the season, with polos, pleats, and parkas in abundance. It sounds like a pared-down enough inspiration, but we all know that Proenza isn't in the business of simplicity. Polos came with contrast collars and leather zip pockets, pleats were juxtaposed against plunging keyhole necklines, and parkas featured laser-cut leather insets: the opposite of restraint as you can see.

P.S. loves that feminine and masculine mash-up and that mix emerged with textured trousers, long line coats, and expertly-tailored blazers - all accented with slicked back hair and fringe peep-toe footwear. Leather added to the contrast on two-tone trousers, collared blouses, high-waist perforated skirts, and even a pair of black zip-leg pants that put a luxe spin on the classic sweatpant. A collarless, knee-length LBD in the texture was the perfect mix of edge and timeless femininity, while a v-neck shirt was equally extravagant and functional.

For those really looking to up the luxury quotient, Hernandez and McCollough brought in python in natural, cobalt, and orange hues. The skin felt incredibly lavish on mock neck coats and knee-high peep-toe booties, but it didn't register as well on the waistbands of mesh tanks and as patchwork on a dress where it was pitted against plaid.

Almost all designers this season have shown flesh in some kind of sultry way and the P.S. guys decided open-knit, crochet skirts and dresses would be more befitting of their brand than on-trend crop tops. In shades of navy, black, and grey, the palette was definitely practical, but it will take a very daring and fearless woman to wear the designs as they toe the line between sexy and unflattering.

And as for eveningwear? Well, there was fringe. It hung softly from sleeveless tops and ankle-length skirts, as well as the skirt of a houndstooth dress that channeled autumn much more than it did Spring. We wouldn't recommend sporting it as the season leads into Summer, but sure the high-fashion loving set will find a way.

Hernandez and McCollough make looking cool synonymous with effortlessness, which has always been at the foundation of their brand. LVMH is currently in talks to take on a minority stake in Proenza Schouler: a possibility that will change the game and the brand trajectory entirely. If this was their tryout, we'd say they aced the test with flying colors.

View Runway
9/10/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

Proenza Schouler's runway collections are where the brand makes their most poignant statements, thus their lineup for Spring was brimming with craftsmanship and innovation. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough embarked on their own adaptation of classic American sportswear for the season, with polos, pleats, and parkas in abundance. It sounds like a pared-down enough inspiration, but we all know that Proenza isn't in the business of simplicity. Polos came with contrast collars and leather zip pockets, pleats were juxtaposed against plunging keyhole necklines, and parkas featured laser-cut leather insets: the opposite of restraint as you can see.

P.S. loves that feminine and masculine mash-up and that mix emerged with textured trousers, long line coats, and expertly-tailored blazers - all accented with slicked back hair and fringe peep-toe footwear. Leather added to the contrast on two-tone trousers, collared blouses, high-waist perforated skirts, and even a pair of black zip-leg pants that put a luxe spin on the classic sweatpant. A collarless, knee-length LBD in the texture was the perfect mix of edge and timeless femininity, while a v-neck shirt was equally extravagant and functional.

For those really looking to up the luxury quotient, Hernandez and McCollough brought in python in natural, cobalt, and orange hues. The skin felt incredibly lavish on mock neck coats and knee-high peep-toe booties, but it didn't register as well on the waistbands of mesh tanks and as patchwork on a dress where it was pitted against plaid.

Almost all designers this season have shown flesh in some kind of sultry way and the P.S. guys decided open-knit, crochet skirts and dresses would be more befitting of their brand than on-trend crop tops. In shades of navy, black, and grey, the palette was definitely practical, but it will take a very daring and fearless woman to wear the designs as they toe the line between sexy and unflattering.

And as for eveningwear? Well, there was fringe. It hung softly from sleeveless tops and ankle-length skirts, as well as the skirt of a houndstooth dress that channeled autumn much more than it did Spring. We wouldn't recommend sporting it as the season leads into Summer, but sure the high-fashion loving set will find a way.

Hernandez and McCollough make looking cool synonymous with effortlessness, which has always been at the foundation of their brand. LVMH is currently in talks to take on a minority stake in Proenza Schouler: a possibility that will change the game and the brand trajectory entirely. If this was their tryout, we'd say they aced the test with flying colors.


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