collections

Rick Owens MenswearFall Winter 2014 Paris Menswear

Runway Review
1/16/2014 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

PARIS — Moody is the adjective Rick Owens used to describe his men’s fall/winter 2014/2015 collection, and I like to imagine the pep talk he gave the models before they exited the backstage area: “Listen up, everyone, Homeland has been cancelled — there won’t be another season.” I’m not sure if the young male models that walked today are fans of Carrie Mathison (more likely they’re into American Horror Story), but that news would definitely have me stomping down the runway with my shoulders hunched, like the models did today.

Of course, Rick’s inspiration was a little (okay, a lot) more highbrow than that. He was exploring masculinity and its relationship with authority: “spiritual authority, capitol authority, and uniforms that suggest authority.” As such, he created a fierce-looking army clothed in long coats and biker jackets, sleeveless leather tunics, utility vests, boxy jumpsuits, and, oddly enough, a nun’s coif or headdress, which he managed to make surprisingly masculine.

 Romper-stomper leather boots went up to the knee and were super-sized, adding to the air of intimidation. (Side note/trend alert: Last night, Raf Simons also presented oversize boots, though his version was more cartoonish).

View Runway
1/16/2014 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

PARIS — Moody is the adjective Rick Owens used to describe his men’s fall/winter 2014/2015 collection, and I like to imagine the pep talk he gave the models before they exited the backstage area: “Listen up, everyone, Homeland has been cancelled — there won’t be another season.” I’m not sure if the young male models that walked today are fans of Carrie Mathison (more likely they’re into American Horror Story), but that news would definitely have me stomping down the runway with my shoulders hunched, like the models did today.

Of course, Rick’s inspiration was a little (okay, a lot) more highbrow than that. He was exploring masculinity and its relationship with authority: “spiritual authority, capitol authority, and uniforms that suggest authority.” As such, he created a fierce-looking army clothed in long coats and biker jackets, sleeveless leather tunics, utility vests, boxy jumpsuits, and, oddly enough, a nun’s coif or headdress, which he managed to make surprisingly masculine.

 Romper-stomper leather boots went up to the knee and were super-sized, adding to the air of intimidation. (Side note/trend alert: Last night, Raf Simons also presented oversize boots, though his version was more cartoonish).


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