collections

Saint LaurentSpring Summer 2015 Paris

Runway Review
9/29/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

Hedi Slimane continues to push the boundaries of the traditional definition of "fashion" with each runway collection for Saint Laurent and Spring was no exception with an air that exuded youthful playfulness, his signature rock-n-roll proclivities, and a touch of naughty with plunging necklines and obscenely short hemlines. Sky-high platform sandals anchored the looks, often taking the assortment into outmoded territory.

The message was undeniable and steeped in functionality: a black long leather jacket layered over a printed mini dress and accessorized with a wide-brim fedora and sheer black tights, a cropped suede jacket paired with an embellished stripe tank and leather embroidered mini skirt, a studded jacket coupled with a flirty LBD, and a camo utility jacket gone print mad alongside a floral frock. The go-to for the brand's woman these days is leather whether in the form of leg-baring shorts or a practical long-line jacket.

The designs were engaging and irresistible: a wearable navy and white pinstripe blazer taking its cue from the boys, an embellished peacock dress that was more tunic than frock, a cropped suede patchwork jacket that could be worn with a simple form-fitting pencil skirt or your favorite jeans, and cutoffs that every woman will need in her Springtime wardrobe if she doesn't already have a pair. The jacket was the French fashion house's must-have piece for the season and it came in many textures and hues including black with quilted leather lapels for a menswear-inspired look, leopard with functional snaps, python with black leather-ribbed trim, and kelly green in a cropped bomber style.

Prints were whimsical and cheerful with cherries sprawled across a one-shoulder, ruffle-detailed dress, seasonally-appropriate flowers spread across a practical button-front shirt, stars accenting a thigh-baring shirt dress, and leopard print laid out on a 70's chic tie-neck blouse. Most enchanted, though others looked a bit inferior to what the brand usually serves on the runway.

At times, the lineup truly did not beam luxury and affluence the way the brand normally does. Luckily, the decoration and adornment was top-notch and the tailoring was expert. Unfortunately, the looks often radiated a fast fashion quality and essence with the flourishes familiar to high-living customers. They did not actively exhibit Slimane's point of view (other than his sustained and quite verbatim hold of the fashions of the past) which is something one never had to question from him before. In despite of all this, there's no doubt that everything on display will fly off shelves and racks in no time: that's just the power of Saint Laurent and Slimane to be frank.

But it all begs the question: where is the Saint Laurent brand going? Is it still all about the designs or is the fashion house creating an atmosphere and mood that supersedes them? Is it Slimane's duty to do more than adjust and fiddle with retro concepts and patterns? Only time will tell, but at this moment we honestly cannot answer. Fortuitously, the designs speak for themselves, but we're uncertain as to whether or not they will continue to do so.

View Runway
9/29/2014 Faith Cummings/fashionwirepress.com

Hedi Slimane continues to push the boundaries of the traditional definition of "fashion" with each runway collection for Saint Laurent and Spring was no exception with an air that exuded youthful playfulness, his signature rock-n-roll proclivities, and a touch of naughty with plunging necklines and obscenely short hemlines. Sky-high platform sandals anchored the looks, often taking the assortment into outmoded territory.

The message was undeniable and steeped in functionality: a black long leather jacket layered over a printed mini dress and accessorized with a wide-brim fedora and sheer black tights, a cropped suede jacket paired with an embellished stripe tank and leather embroidered mini skirt, a studded jacket coupled with a flirty LBD, and a camo utility jacket gone print mad alongside a floral frock. The go-to for the brand's woman these days is leather whether in the form of leg-baring shorts or a practical long-line jacket.

The designs were engaging and irresistible: a wearable navy and white pinstripe blazer taking its cue from the boys, an embellished peacock dress that was more tunic than frock, a cropped suede patchwork jacket that could be worn with a simple form-fitting pencil skirt or your favorite jeans, and cutoffs that every woman will need in her Springtime wardrobe if she doesn't already have a pair. The jacket was the French fashion house's must-have piece for the season and it came in many textures and hues including black with quilted leather lapels for a menswear-inspired look, leopard with functional snaps, python with black leather-ribbed trim, and kelly green in a cropped bomber style.

Prints were whimsical and cheerful with cherries sprawled across a one-shoulder, ruffle-detailed dress, seasonally-appropriate flowers spread across a practical button-front shirt, stars accenting a thigh-baring shirt dress, and leopard print laid out on a 70's chic tie-neck blouse. Most enchanted, though others looked a bit inferior to what the brand usually serves on the runway.

At times, the lineup truly did not beam luxury and affluence the way the brand normally does. Luckily, the decoration and adornment was top-notch and the tailoring was expert. Unfortunately, the looks often radiated a fast fashion quality and essence with the flourishes familiar to high-living customers. They did not actively exhibit Slimane's point of view (other than his sustained and quite verbatim hold of the fashions of the past) which is something one never had to question from him before. In despite of all this, there's no doubt that everything on display will fly off shelves and racks in no time: that's just the power of Saint Laurent and Slimane to be frank.

But it all begs the question: where is the Saint Laurent brand going? Is it still all about the designs or is the fashion house creating an atmosphere and mood that supersedes them? Is it Slimane's duty to do more than adjust and fiddle with retro concepts and patterns? Only time will tell, but at this moment we honestly cannot answer. Fortuitously, the designs speak for themselves, but we're uncertain as to whether or not they will continue to do so.


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