collections

TodsSpring Summer 2014 Milan

Runway Review
9/20/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

Not every collection is about sex, even if, as the cliché goes, sex sells. But when a designer chooses to largely avoid the subject, they put a certain onus on themselves to provide a compelling alternative. It’s not always easy.

In her first ready-to-wear collection for Tod’s, for example, and the house’s first runway show ever, creative director Alessandra Facchinetti offered a conservative, sartorial equivalent of the leather brand’s famous pebble-soled driving shoes and bags. Using the circular nubs on the accessories as a starting point, Ms Facchinetti created tissue-thin perforated leather, and shaped it into in knee-length skirts (full and straight) and tunic tops; larger circles, inspired in part by the art of Lucio Fontana, appeared on leather car coats and skirts. There were classic trouser suits with pussy bow blouses, cotton shirtwaists with sides that could be zipped or unzipped at will, and one-shouldered leather dresses belted at the waist, all fresh and accomplished and wholly lacking in urgency.

If the goal is for a Tod’s customer to come in, buy a shoe, and then maybe buy a dress to go-with, these clothes will serve their purpose, but if the goal is for the clothes to drive people into the stores, they need some more oomph.

Source: The Financial Times

View Runway
9/20/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

Not every collection is about sex, even if, as the cliché goes, sex sells. But when a designer chooses to largely avoid the subject, they put a certain onus on themselves to provide a compelling alternative. It’s not always easy.

In her first ready-to-wear collection for Tod’s, for example, and the house’s first runway show ever, creative director Alessandra Facchinetti offered a conservative, sartorial equivalent of the leather brand’s famous pebble-soled driving shoes and bags. Using the circular nubs on the accessories as a starting point, Ms Facchinetti created tissue-thin perforated leather, and shaped it into in knee-length skirts (full and straight) and tunic tops; larger circles, inspired in part by the art of Lucio Fontana, appeared on leather car coats and skirts. There were classic trouser suits with pussy bow blouses, cotton shirtwaists with sides that could be zipped or unzipped at will, and one-shouldered leather dresses belted at the waist, all fresh and accomplished and wholly lacking in urgency.

If the goal is for a Tod’s customer to come in, buy a shoe, and then maybe buy a dress to go-with, these clothes will serve their purpose, but if the goal is for the clothes to drive people into the stores, they need some more oomph.

Source: The Financial Times


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