collections

Valentino MenswearSpring Summer 2014 Paris Menswear

Runway Review
6/26/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

SHOWNOTES: Valentino Menswear Collection Spring/Summer 2014

With a sense of precision and a taste of experimentation, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli use the savoir faire of the atelier, which is the essence of the Valentino world, to invent new suits that rewrite masculine iconographies with elegant simplicity, which creates a timeless yet contemporary look. With sharpness and determination, they proceed through interpretations, intarsia and combinations. They blend pieces of the wardrobe to create new gestures. What was once familiar, distilled in our collective memory and use, transforms after the sartorial morphing process, yet it does not lose its archetypal character. Effortless naturalness is the defining note.

The collection for Spring/Summer 2014 explores the subversive rigor of the uniform with the modernist spirit and essential clarity which is typical of the Valentino man. The silhouette is precise and dynamic with a graphic sense of addition and surprise. Couture expertise and a search for new functionality are blended in ever-changing combinations. The elements that compose each garment-pockets, flaps, martingales, and collars-are accentuated by texture and color contrasts. The sum reveals the addends. Front and back coincide but do not perfectly match. The result is like an abstract blueprint: everything is in its place yet the balance is slightly skewed. Shirt-jackets, pea coats and parkas are made of a combination of different materials have impeccable aplomb. The silhouette is crossed with powerful lines: heat bonded bands, reflective strips, and blanket stripes. Denim used as intarsia or as nuanced blocks of color, recovers its workwear status in sartorial suits and outerwear with an atelier mood. Heat-bonded poplin or silk twill suits introduce an impalpable, nonchalant note.

Fabrics such as dry wool, bonded cotton, barathea twill and poplin are crisp and pleasant to the touch. The martial palette blends shades of blue, denim blue, burgundy and bottle green. Camouflage, floral chine designs, sailor stripes, and toile de jouy motifs interrupt the sense of visual order.

Accessories include lace-up footwear and moccasins with deconstructed uppers stitched to thick soles. Crocodile and rubber thongs made in cooperation with Havainas, combine luxury and practically. Authentic yet the result of a fusion, they represent the values of the collection. Bags and backpacks in moose printed leather.

The design of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli focuses on a dilation of time. Basing their work upon the urgency of today, they aim to gradually build an ideal wardrobe with continuity. They designed it for a man who looks at today's fashion fads with detached interest and is more intent on defining a personal style that truly represents him. His elegance is natural, composed and flawlessly imperfect


View Runway
6/26/2013 Ed Kavishe/fashionwirepress.com

SHOWNOTES: Valentino Menswear Collection Spring/Summer 2014

With a sense of precision and a taste of experimentation, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli use the savoir faire of the atelier, which is the essence of the Valentino world, to invent new suits that rewrite masculine iconographies with elegant simplicity, which creates a timeless yet contemporary look. With sharpness and determination, they proceed through interpretations, intarsia and combinations. They blend pieces of the wardrobe to create new gestures. What was once familiar, distilled in our collective memory and use, transforms after the sartorial morphing process, yet it does not lose its archetypal character. Effortless naturalness is the defining note.

The collection for Spring/Summer 2014 explores the subversive rigor of the uniform with the modernist spirit and essential clarity which is typical of the Valentino man. The silhouette is precise and dynamic with a graphic sense of addition and surprise. Couture expertise and a search for new functionality are blended in ever-changing combinations. The elements that compose each garment-pockets, flaps, martingales, and collars-are accentuated by texture and color contrasts. The sum reveals the addends. Front and back coincide but do not perfectly match. The result is like an abstract blueprint: everything is in its place yet the balance is slightly skewed. Shirt-jackets, pea coats and parkas are made of a combination of different materials have impeccable aplomb. The silhouette is crossed with powerful lines: heat bonded bands, reflective strips, and blanket stripes. Denim used as intarsia or as nuanced blocks of color, recovers its workwear status in sartorial suits and outerwear with an atelier mood. Heat-bonded poplin or silk twill suits introduce an impalpable, nonchalant note.

Fabrics such as dry wool, bonded cotton, barathea twill and poplin are crisp and pleasant to the touch. The martial palette blends shades of blue, denim blue, burgundy and bottle green. Camouflage, floral chine designs, sailor stripes, and toile de jouy motifs interrupt the sense of visual order.

Accessories include lace-up footwear and moccasins with deconstructed uppers stitched to thick soles. Crocodile and rubber thongs made in cooperation with Havainas, combine luxury and practically. Authentic yet the result of a fusion, they represent the values of the collection. Bags and backpacks in moose printed leather.

The design of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli focuses on a dilation of time. Basing their work upon the urgency of today, they aim to gradually build an ideal wardrobe with continuity. They designed it for a man who looks at today's fashion fads with detached interest and is more intent on defining a personal style that truly represents him. His elegance is natural, composed and flawlessly imperfect



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